Centre stage vegetables with A Bit on the Side’s Ed Smith…

Described as a class full of inspiring side dishes, this demonstration at Divertimenti from Rocket & Squash’s Ed Smith was a welcome breath of fresh, light, flavourful, vegetarian air. Three hours, seven dishes and a lot of chat resulted in a slew of new ideas for both dressing up the supporting acts on your plate and also turning them into dishes worthy enough of being crowned the main event. Familiar, accessible & non-threatening ingredients like cauliflower, carrots & new potatoes sat comfortably alongside arguable wild-cards like seaweed, carrot tops & green tomatoes.

Ed, a former lawyer-turned-blogger-turned-writer-turned-chef, was friendly, easy going and totally at home juggling multiple pans; it felt less like we were in a Brompton Road basement kitchen and more sat round his table at home, dog underfoot & vino in hand. FYI I have no idea if Ed has a dog but he seemed like a nice guy and we all know – cat lovers look away now – that the best people in life have dogs.

The first dish of the night was one that could easily pass as a centrepiece statement rather than being relegated to the ‘sides’ bench. Chunky cauliflower florets were roasted in a mixture of rapeseed oil and cumin salt before being tumbled onto a platter with crispy roasted chickpeas, blanched spring greens and dollops of lemony, sumac sprinkled tahini. The blend of so-hip-they-hurt Middle Eastern flavours paired beautifully with the textures & colours of this minimum-fuss, maximum-flavour dish.IMG_7080Next, two gorgeously simple ways to dress up the kitchen knockout that is the Jersey Royal. One of our loveliest & most seasonal vegetables, usually Elvis-approved amounts of butter and a twist of black pepper are enough to elevate this humble little spud but here, Ed showed us the savoury moreishness of dulse seaweed melted into butter and a traditional-with-a-twist pesto made with ferny carrot top fronds. Vibrant yet delicate and eye-wideningly delicious, these brought the idea of how a Jersey Royal should be served into the modern age of cooking.IMG_7082

IMG_7081A traditional American wedge salad usually arrives drowning in blue cheese dressing and creaking under a mountain of bacon bits; Ed’s lighter & more summery version came with a dill-heavy buttermilk dressing that was joyfully fragrant and worth making double of because life’s too short for skimpy amounts of dressing, translucent radish slices and umami-packed soy seeds & popped quinoa. It may sound like a lot of elements but each took only moments to prepare, making the overall end result well worth the effort.IMG_7089Grilled green tiger tomatoes were sprinkled with white pepper and chilli leaving them fresh, juicy & sharp… IMG_7084…a fennel & tarragon salad delivered a beautifully clean, subtle aniseed tang and carrots were given a new lease of life, one that was silky with brown butter, full of chopped hazelnuts & fresh parsley and pan-to-plate ready in minutes.IMG_7085Great tips such as ‘cauliflower always needs a good 45 minutes to roast properly not the 20 minutes designated by cookbooks on a space-page budget’ and a desire to use the entirety of each vegetable & avoid excess waste were two of the nicest qualities of the evening, along with the fact that everything made could be used on so many more blank canvasses than those we saw painted tonight. Nothing was overly complicated, everything was delicious and it was inspiring, in our increasingly plant based culinary landscape, to see vegetables take their moment in the spotlight.

 

Roasted Winter Squash & Carrots Agrodolce…

Every so often I stumble across a recipe that I think sounds interesting, I make up and I promptly fall head over heels for. This absolute gem from the archives of Bon Appetit and the mind of Senior Food Editor Chris Morocco is one such example of my rampant, random, recipe obsession.

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Currently in the throes of a wintry obsession with roasted squash and carrots – honestly, I’ve years to make up for where carrots are concerned having only recently realised that my decades long avoidance of ‘squishy’ carrots has kept me from the perfectly caramelised vegetables which emerge after time spent in the oven – and needing to find as many ways to eat them as I possibly can, this tangy, spicy, sweet dressing is glorious in its complexity of flavours and simplicity of cooking. Read More

Macrobiotic salads & avocado smoothies to sell your clean-living soul for…

WARNING…this article contains nothing fried or frosted.

If the last post’s content of so-deliciously-messy-I-must-gobble-them-immediately-in-a-most-unladylike-fashion tacos, milkshakes so molten-candy thick you can feel them filling your veins with sweetness, and crisply dunkable sweet potato fries has left you craving something fresher and greener, relax. Take a deep yogic style breath, salute the sun and give thanks for the literary menu here today which responds only to words like ‘clean’, ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ and which will leave you feeling brighter-eyed, rosier cheeked & bushier tailed than the love child of Gwyneth Paltrow and Jillian Michaels.

Welcome to the very LA side of the LA dining scene…

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