It’s no secret that London can be an expensive place to eat. For every Michelin starred restaurant that’s worth the splurge but requires a re-mortgage of your house, there’s a hidden gem where you can fill your face for under a fiver but often, if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is. This quandary between eating well and having a roof over your head is what makes Flat Iron such a head-nodding, back-slapping, applause-giving winner in the value, the taste & the experience stakes. Yep. Believe the hype and get in line now. ‘But it’s only Monday’ I hear you cry…’but it’s amazing steak for a tenner in London…’ I holler back.
There are now 3 of these steak meccas in central London making any one of them a great shout for meeting up with friends but the newest incarnation on Henrietta St is especially worth a visit. Whereas the others are intimately small (great for dates, lousy for queues), this is the biggest and hopefully, the one that’ll boast a quicker turnaround of tables. Arriving at 6pm on a Friday night, tables for 2 were hitting the 60-minute wait mark – any more in your group and you’re looking at nearer 90-minutes but let’s be honest, it’s not like you’re in a barren wasteland devoid of refreshment. Fling a cocktail umbrella into the street and it’ll land on the doorstep of any one of a dozen spots bidding for your Happy Hour custom as the weekend kicks off so put your name down at the restaurant, give them your number then go get involved with something bubbly to wash away the work week.
After only 45 minutes wait, we were led through the snugly lit and packed restaurant to a cosy table near the back. Staff were Friday-vibe cheery as they explained the menu – which TBH doesn’t require much brain power given its brevity – and delivered mugs of beef dripping popcorn with a smile. Yeah, you read right. Beef dripping popcorn – a near perfect snack for soaking up the drink or two you’ll have already had without filling up precious steak room in your stomach.
As I mentioned, the food choices are short. No, really they are. This place boasts the Danny DeVito of menus. It’s basically steak. There might be a burger on the specials board but if you’ve come here and queued here and got excited to be sat here, then I know you’re here for the meat. Drop your veggie friends off at nearby Mildred’s, tuck a napkin in your collar and get ready for the meat.
A £10 cut of beef from the shoulder is your only option but unlike other ‘one dish’ places in London, this one knows what it’s doing. Our steaks came medium rare as suggested, and within what felt like minutes of ordering. What’s extra nice about Flat Iron is that despite service being prompt, once it arrives, you’re very much left alone with no constant ‘how’s it going?’ which can often imply more of a concern with when you’ll be giving the table back as opposed to how you’re enjoying your meal. We were never ignored but we didn’t feel rushed for a second and as this was a girly catch up of the red wine fuelled variety – alarmingly quaffable Malbec FYI – it was appreciated.
The steak itself was superb. Flawlessly cooked and served in plumply blushing slices on a board unfussed with anything else, it was juicy, pink & tender. The quirky cleaver that comes with your fork – and a plea not to be pilfered at the end of the meal – sliced through with the minimum of bother and a generous pot of accompanying house salad was fresh, crunchy & tangy with mustard.
Sides of creamed spinach and broccoli were deliciously creamy & firm and ‘Sophie’s Salad’ was generously peppered with chunks of blue cheese, candied pecans and lemon dressing. Getting any cut of steak right is something that’s befuddled dozens of other places in London but a confident streamlining of the menu here shows exactly how you should get it right.
If anything can make me love a place more than a perfect slab of meat, it’s the bestowing of a free salted caramel ice-cream cone at the end of the meal. Creamy, sweet and speckled with chocolate shavings, it’s literally everything you want when your belly is full of cow but your second – and entirely separately – stomach is open for business and open for dessert and it finished girls night on just the right note.
It’s brave to only sell one thing in a restaurant and a lot of the time it’s foolish, pointless or downright annoying. For every Smack Lobster or Balls and Company (yay), there’s a Cereal Killer Café or a Hip Chips (yawn). You gotta pick what you’re cooking carefully and then you’ve gotta actually make it worthwhile paying for. Luckily Flat Iron has done both and long may they continue to do so – the capital’s steak scene is all the better for it.